Nutricosmetics are evolving. And with them, the way hair follicle health is approached.
Increasingly, the focus is shifting away from general solutions toward a deeper understanding of hair follicle biology. In this context, Pharmactive introduces Kyoh®, a leaf extract of Eruca sativa that marks its entry into the beauty-from-within space through a more targeted approach.
A targeted approach to hair follicle health
Rocket is a common ingredient in the diet, yet its phytochemical composition reveals a complexity that recent research is beginning to link to hair biology.
While rocket seed oil has traditionally been used as a hair tonic in South Asia, the development of Kyoh® is specifically based on the scientific exploration of its leaf extract.
From this botanical foundation, the next step is ensuring consistency.
Kyoh® has been developed with a defined standardization:
- More than 1.5% Erucosides®
- Between 1.5% and 3.0% flavonol glycosides (quantified by HPLC), including derivatives of quercetin, kaempferol, and isorhamnetin
This level of control enables a reproducible chemical profile, which is key for formulation applications.
Preclinical evidence: what laboratory data suggest
Interest in Kyoh® lies in its potential to interact, as indicated by preliminary studies, with cellular processes relevant to the regulation of the hair follicle.
A study published in March 2025 in the journal Molecules evaluated this flavanol-rich extract in laboratory models using human dermal papilla cells.
The results of this in vitro study suggest that Kyoh® may act through several complementary mechanisms:
- Genetic modulation: the extract has shown the ability to influence the activity of genes associated with the follicle cycle, such as VEGF, linked to vascularization processes in the follicular environment
- Cellular proliferation: data suggest a possible involvement of FGF7, a protein associated with keratinocyte proliferation, which is essential for hair fiber structure
- Response to stress: the extract showed potential to activate NRF2, a regulator involved in the cellular response to oxidative stress
In the coming months, new clinical data are expected to provide further insight into the role of Kyoh® in processes related to hair integrity and appearance.
A targeted and transparent approach
Kyoh® is not positioned as a generalist solution, but as a botanical nutricosmetic ingredient with a clear focus: the follicle.
In line with current market expectations, the raw material is sourced from European farmers, ensuring a controlled supply chain, along with non-GMO standards and no irradiation processes.
Meet us at Vitafoods Europe
Pharmactive will officially present Kyoh® at Vitafoods Europe (Barcelona, May 5–7, booth 5D28).
This will be an opportunity to share these findings, discuss preliminary data, and explore formulation possibilities for this new approach to hair health.
